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What It’s Like to Own the Original Birkin
The collector and custodian of Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin recalls the 2000 auction where she won the world’s most famous handbag – and the extraordinary journey it’s had in the 25 years since.
W hen I opened my first Parisian store, in 1994, I would have loved to own 168开奖官方开奖网站查询:Jane Birkin’s own Hermès Birkin bag. It was first sold that year. But I had to establish my reputation as a collector, which I set out to do by showcasing exceptional, rare pieces from ephemeral collections. I worked hard to curatꦰe on⛎ly the most exceptional pieces in my boutique. A few years later, the bag was presented again at auction. It felt like my landmark moment – and hers, too.
Auction specialists and appraisal offices would often contact me for various sales. When they reached out to me about this bag, I was overcome by a variety of emotions. It was such a special moment. I felt I was holding a part of history in my hands – the history of the House of Hermès. When I saw it, I immediately thought of the iconic sac Haut à courroies, which was first made at a time when it could be said that the horse was the first and only client of the house!
Auctions back in the 2000s were nothing like they are now, with all the technology to assist bidders. I was determined to keep👍 a low profile – to not show my face or sit in the front row under the watchful eye of the auctioneer. Instead I called in to an expert on the phone, who kept me waiting in line, counting down the lots as they went under the hammer. Finally the Birkin bag was announced, and you can’t imagine the level of excitement I felt. Hands shot up, eyes were scanning the room and the auctioneer offered encouraging words. It was like a poker game without cards.
I asked my specialist to let the room play out a l𒉰ittle, as a way of testing the other bidders and their degree of commitment. Mine was total. I was both relieved and humbled when the 𒊎gavel fell. It felt less like I’d made the bag my own than that it had taken possession of me.
The Very First Birkin Bag: Jane Birkin’s Original Hermès Up for Auction
“It felt less like I’d made the bag my own than that it had taken possession of me.”
The first Birkin was worn daily by its namesake, but it was technically a prototype containing 168开奖官方开奖网站查询:a number of unique features. Its shoulder strap, size and finish – these were all perfected before Hermè𒐪s released the definitive model to the public. The strap, for example, became more associated with the Hermès Kelly and the very chic and divine Grâce de Monaco; the first Birkin, on the other hand, is the only Birkin with a non-removable shoulder strap.
Being a collector is a full-time job, but this acquisition marked a transitional moment where I became an exhibiting collector. An English fashion magazine once referred to me as “a fashion antique dealer,” but I don’t shop for others; I shop for myself. I never know what piece is next on my wish list – what piece will trigger my desire or open th🌱at box in my mind. Whatever the case may be, a private collection must be harmonious. The objects must get along together to form 🐎a narrative. They must not clash or be in opposition.
So it seemed only natural that I’d go from being a collector and buyer to a cuꦜrator, loaning the first Birkin to two major exhibitions at MoMA in New York and the V𓂃ictoria & Albert Museum in London. It was the fruit of my reflection on these objects – and my desire for them to exist in places other than boutiques and dressing rooms. I see handbags as traditional works of art, and as such they deserve homage in museums. Every cultural object deserves its retrospective, its chance to exhibit its non-market value in our daily lives.
Knowing that the bag has been extensively photographed, commented on and evaluated in media and on social networks is part of the mission I’d set for myself. I knew from the beginning that it had to be shown – and it has an extraordinary talent for stirring up crowds and creating enthusiasm, which helps ensure that the House of Hermès can live on. I’ll 🌊also admit that I’m proud when my name is mentioned. I’ve loved being the owner of the Birkin bag for 25 years now – it’s been a way of reminding myself and others of my commitment to helping make the Birkin the most famous bag in the world. I think I’ve succeeded in that.
“I see handbags as traditional works of art, and as such they deserve homage in museums.”
The Birkin now celebrates its 40th anniversary. I’ve had many Hermès bags in my private 𒁃collection, none of which I tire of or regret acquiring. The Birkin is the quintessence of Hermès, and owning one is a recognition of love for fine leathers – and for a luxury that can be re💙paired, passed on, offered and received as a gift.
The opportunity to pass it on to a new owner has ignited a tremendous wave of excitement. It seems that everyone is curious about it; I’ve received hundreds of messages of congratulations and best wishes for the sale. Lovers of Hermès are watching it closely, anticipating the fact that it may become the most expensive bag ever sold at auction. Its estimate reflects its importance in history, but also the place of pride it has held asཧ the most precious objection in my collection.
Ultimately its sale is not the end of the ba🐻g’s story, rather the beginning of a new 🐓set of wonderful adventures.
—As told to Aurélie Vassy, Head of Handbags & Fashion, Sotheby’s Europe
