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Lot 221
  • 221

14 karat gold, colored stone and diamond brooch, F. Walter Lawrence, circa 1900

Estimate
12,000 - 15,000 USD
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Description

The openwork shield-shaped plaque decorated with a variety of cabochon and faceted colored stones, including amethysts, tourmalines, chrysoberyls, peridots, and citrines, further set with cultured pearls, an old-mine diamond of light yellow hue weighing approximately 1.75 carats, and 2 small old European-cut diamonds, signed FWL Inc. 

Condition

The stones are predominantly eye-clean to moderately included. Attractive autumnal shades. Some with abrasions to facet junctions, a couple of the stones are chipped at the edges. The stone above the cat's-eye is a simulated alexandrite. Pearls are creamy golden and with good luster. In good condition overall. Signed FWL Inc. on reverse, near right-hand lobe of shield.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Frank Walter Lawrence (1864-1929), known best to avid jewelry collectors, apprenticed to several jewelry manufacturers before starting his own firm in 1889 in Newark.  Moving his company to New York City in 1894, Lawrence conducted his business in an upstairs salon where he focused on jewelry, silverware and bronzes.  Serving an elite clientele, one of his patrons was Mary Harrison, the wife of President Benjamin Harrison. Although Lawrence did work with precious stones, he mainly focused on unusual stones of artistic quality, using such gems as pink tourmaline, moonstone, chrysoprase, and hessonite garnet.  Following the Arts and Crafts style in America, Lawrence was inspired by nature and tried to recreate it in his work.  By 1898 he  changed the name of his company to F. Walter Lawrence. Upon his passing in 1929, the company exchanged hands several times and was dissolved in 1975.