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Lot 173
  • 173

Suite of 18 karat gold and colored stone jewelry, Tiffany & Co., Designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany, circa 1910

Estimate
100,000 - 125,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

  • Tiffany & Co.
Comprising a necklace, a bracelet and pair of earrings, formed of sculpted gold links of foliate and scroll design, set with a variety of colored stones, including sapphires in multiple hues, blue and purple spinel, pink tourmaline, amethyst and zircon, in round, cushion and various fancy shapes, lengths of necklace and bracelet 18½ and 6 7/8  inches, earrings with later-added backs, signed Tiffany & Co.

Condition

Earclips are applied with plaques stamped Tiffany & Co. and the screw backs are later added, possibly these were made from links of the necklace. The necklace is stamped with the signature Tiffany & Co. on the tongue of the clasp. The bracelet is unsigned. Minor abrasions to the facet junctions of some of the stones and gentle discoloration to the texturing of the gold, but in good condition overall. Very nice detail and execution.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933) had already established his reputation as a leading proponent of the American Art & Crafts movement when, at the turn on the century, he turned his attention to jewelry.  The characteristic hand-wrought style that he had previously employed with a variety of mediums was reinterpreted on a smaller scale to form sinuous, naturalistic mountings for what was aptly named "art jewelry".  Louis Comfort's stylistic predilections were a departure not only from the more conservative creations of Tiffany & Co. while under the direction of his father, but also from the work of his Edwardian contemporaries.  While the prevailing fashion called for diamonds and pearls, Louis Comfort selected gemstones for their chromatic potential and ability to transform light, a process undoubtedly informed by his work with stained glass windows.  In the present suite of jewelry, bright orange sapphires are juxtaposed with blue spinels, pink tourmalines and amethysts, the use of so-called semi-precious stones serving to underline his affinity for visual impact over intrinsic value.  The creeping gold vines of the mounting envelop the colorful crystals, as though the earth is attempting to reclaim its riches.  The overall effect is very organic and very much in keeping with the principles central to Louis Comfort's artistic philosophy.