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Lot 231
  • 231

Moonstone, sapphire and diamond necklace, Tiffany & Co, designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany, circa 1910

Estimate
90,000 - 120,000 USD
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Description

  • Tiffany & Co.
The center composed of an articulated floral motif of trefoil shape, set with a round moonstone cabochon bordered by numerous round sapphires and diamonds, supporting three sapphire fringes, the central fringe anchored by an oval moonstone cabochon, completed by chains and C-scroll links set with additional round sapphires, the clasp enhanced with a round moonstone cabochon, mounted in platinum, length 13¼ inches, signed Tiffany & Co. 

Condition

Good condition. The sapphires are light to medium slightly violetish blue and eye-clean (typical of Montana sapphires). The moonstones present a soft blue adularescence. The diamonds are approximately G-H color, VS clarity. Signed Tiffany & Co. on the clasp. Also with scratch number B4L(or 2?) 451. One of the links near the female end of the clasp was previously detached and has now been repaired.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

The present necklace demonstrates a departure from the highly naturalistic manner employed by Louis Comfort Tiffany toward a more stylized and symmetrical style, a progression that can be attributed in part to the introduction of platinum.  Platinum, a durable yet malleable material, allowed for highly delicate mountings, placing gemstones—and their light-transforming properties—at center stage.  The subtle color palette created here by the combination of moonstones, sapphires and the judicious use of diamonds, was particularly favored by Tiffany and may be found in a significant number of works produced during this period.  Of particular note are the sapphires bearing the fine clarity, brilliance and unique cornflower blue color typical of examples mined from Yogo Gulch, Montana.  Intensive mining at Yogo Gulch began in the 1890s and continued until 1923 when a flood and possible earthquake destroyed the mine.  Tiffany, under the guidance of Dr. George F. Kunz, Tiffany & Co.'s gemologist, championed the use of American gemstones including tourmalines from Maine, freshwater pearls from Mississippi and, most famously, Yogo Gulch sapphires, making the present necklace instantly recognizable as a work by Louis Comfort Tiffany.