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Lot 298
  • 298

Turquoise, amethyst and diamond brooch, Sterlé, 1960s

Estimate
30,000 - 50,000 CHF
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Description

  • Sterlé
  • signed Sterlé Paris and numbered, French assay marks and maker's marks.
Designed as a stylised flower decorated with cabochon turquoise and brilliant-cut diamond set leaves, the stem set with calibré-cut amethysts, mounted in white and yellow gold,

Literature

For similar examples of flower brooches by Sterlé dated from the mid 1950s to the mid 1970s, please seeViviane Jutheau, Sterlé Joaillier Paris, Editions Vecteurs, 1990.

Condition

Stamped 750 for gold. Signed Sterlé Paris and numbered 8.375. Turquoise bright blue colour with typical veins, well matched. Amethyst bright purple colour, well matched. Lively diamonds. Some minor scratches to metal, very well preserved, in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Pierre Sterlé was born in 1905 into a family of high-ranking financial officials. At the death of his father during the First World War, he was left under the tutelage of an uncle, an established jeweller with premises in Paris, in rue de Castiglione. This initial exposure to the world of jewellery was to prove of paramount importance for the choice of his career. In 1934, after having worked for several Parisian jewellers, he set up his own business in rue Saint Anne from where he moved twice, firstly to rue de Moulins and then to 45, avenue de l'Opéra before closing some thirty years later. In spite of the loyalty of an international clientele, financial difficulties forced him in 1961 to sell numerous designs from his inventory to Chaumet. In 1976 Chaumet took him up in the capacity of creative advisor.
The jewels of Pierre Sterlé are distinctive in design and superbly crafted. His diamond creations are immediately recognisable, featuring dramatic overlapping and twisted motifs such as ribbons, feathers and leaves, rendered in the most elegant and wearable designs. His remarkable talent and audacious creativeness was acknowledged three years in succession with the prestigious De Beers' Diamond International Award.  Pierre Sterlé was fascinated by the decorative potential offered by gold. He worked and manipulated the metal to reproduce the different textures of fabric and textiles: tassels, fringes, cords, mesh, basket weave. Semiprecious and unusual stones often featured in his audacious creations, combined with gold and diamonds. Nature offered an inexhaustible source of inspiration: flowers, leaves, animals and especially birds were recurrent motifs in his production. All Sterlé's jewels, whether lavishly set with diamonds or beautifully crafted in gold, share the same characteristic: that of being instantly recognised as the work of a genius.