Designed as a series of open work lozenge and stylised circular links set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, the former accented with cabochon emeralds, suspending an open work shield-shaped pendant of Persian design, centring on a cut cornered step-cut emerald, accented with circular-, single-cut and baguette diamonds, supported on a curved bar with cabochon emerald terminals, mounted in platinum,

Cf: The Necklace, from Antiquity to the Present, Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Thames & Hudson, 1997, pages 155-157, 164-167, for further information on sautoirs.

Central step-cut emerald estimated to weigh approximately 11.00 carats (gauged in mounting, depth difficult to measure exactly because of the mounting), medium colour saturation, typical crystal inclusions (some reaching surface), minor nicks and abrasion to facet junctions and table. Cabochon emeralds abbraded. Diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 38.00 carats in total, generally H-J colour, VS-SI clarity (majority SI). Signs of wear commensurate with the age, scratches and tarnish (mainly at the back and around clasps) to metal. On minor mark of repair on one link. Attractive versatile piece. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The 1920s๊ saw the sautoir become the dominant form of necklace, often worn in combination with very long pendent earrings.  Its elongated line beautifully complimented the verticality of the line of contemporary dress, often drop waisted with open necklines.

Sautoirs of the mid 1920s were based on linear geometrical designs characterised by strongly contrasting colour combinations and an extraordinary eclecticism.  Jewellery designs ranging from geometric shapes to stylisations of nature and reinterp🐠retations of exotic Oriental forms or architectural details, sometimes jewels incorporated gemstones such as emeralds carved in the Mughal way.  Inspiration from Ancient Egyptian art including motifs of hieroglyphics an🐻d scarab beetles were included in jewels created by many of the larger houses, this style began to influence fashion after Howard Carter's discovery of the treasures of Tutankhamen in 1922. 

Sautoirs continued to be in vogue well in to the late 1920s and 30s.  The later examples may be distinguished from those of the earlier years of the decade by their monochromatic use of diamonds mounted in platinum, which replaced earlier strong and contrasting colour combinations, and by the repetition of bold geometric motifs 🍃often inspired by industrial, mechanical parts and Cubism.  Diamonds were used in many different and unusual shapes were often used in order to create repetitive geometric patterns, while pendants were given a fulleᩚᩚᩚᩚᩚᩚ⁤⁤⁤⁤ᩚ⁤⁤⁤⁤ᩚ⁤⁤⁤⁤ᩚ𒀱ᩚᩚᩚr outline.

Another distinguishing feature of the later 1920s sautoirs was their versatility as a jewel.  The chain could be divided into sections to be worn as shorter neckla🐟ces or as brac🎐elets, while the detachable pendant often doubled as a brooch as in this example.