Designed as two confronting sprays of oak leaves tapering from the centre, set throughout with old mine diamonds,

Metal tested as gold and silver. Diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 35.00 - 40.000 carats but accurate weight estimation difficult because of the stones beeing old cuts of various shapes, mixed in colour and clarity but bright and lively stones. One diamond deficient. Scratches and tarnish to metal commensurate with the age, signs of normal wear. Delicate and versatile jewel. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Tiaras and diadems have their origin in the ancient custom of crowning the vic🌠torious with laurel branches or oak twigs and acorns, and self adornment is just one of the many complicated functions fulfilled by tiaras in antiquity.  In ancient Greek times they were worn by women to enhance their look and display their status, but they were also given as offerings to the gods and occasionally also served as bullion.

The inventories of Greek temples and sanctuaries show that large numbers of gold wreaths were left as dedications by private individuals, men and women, retiring officials, states or foreign powers.  The wr🐻eaths were made of foliage sacred to the deity the temple was dedicated to: ivy for Dionysus, wheat for Demeter and oak for Zeus.

Wreaths have been found in burial sites in Macedonia, Southern Italy, Asia Minor and the North Pontic area from the fourth century B.C. onwards.  Demosthenes, the famous Greek orator, writes that gold wreaths were worn for certain religious ceremonies.  Some of these ancient Greek exampl💝es were so accurately observed from nature that they were even decorated with insects modelled in gold.

Tiaras in the shape of wreaths of leaves were revived in the Napoleonic era.  Napoleon chose a gold laurel leaf headdress to be crowned Emperor in 1804 and sprays of laurel and myrtle leaves encrusted with diamonds adorned the heads of the female members of his family attending the ceremony.
 
Tiaras in the shape of leaf wreaths remained popular throughout the 19th century and some splendid examples designed as sprays of oak leaves were produced in England for several British families such as the Howard's, Howard de Walden's, Crichton-Stuart's, and the Norfolk's - where the oak leaf is an element within their coat-of-arms. The oak leaf, besides being emblematic of fortitude and strength, has also assumed a patriotic significance and was adopted for jewels celebrating the defeat of Napoleon by the British Army and Navy.
 
Amongst outstanding examples are: an impressive example formed of three sprays of naturalistic oak leaves and acorns, made by Hunt and Roskell , circa1855 which is part of the Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum (The Art of the Jeweller, A Catalogue of the Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum, Edited by Hugh Tait, London 1984, vol. II, plates 2 and 3, vol. I  p. 28 n. 22); an oak leaf tiara by Garrard dating to the 1880s, held in a private collection (D. Scarisbrick, Tiara, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 2000, p 95) and the splendid oak leaf and acorn diamond tiara made by Garrard for the Fifteenth Duke of Norfolk to give to his bride, Gwendolen Constable Maxwell on the occasion of their marriage in 1904 (G. Munn, Tiaras. A History of Splendour, Woodbridge 2001, p 239)