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Lot 265
  • 265

Yellow gold, platinum and diamond bracelet

Estimate
30,000 - 45,000 CHF
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Description

The sprung bracelet designed as a coiled serpent, decorated with stylised chevron scales set with cushion- and pear-shaped, single- and circular-cut diamonds, signed Cartier Paris and numbered, French assay marks, 1938, the detachable serpent head, not by Cartier, is a later addition and may be worn as a clip brooch.

Literature


Condition

Bracelet signed Cartier Paris, French assay marks for gold, indistinct marks for platinum, maker's marks, numbered L4504. Total diamond weight approximately 18.00 carats, gauged insofar as mounting permits. Mixed in colour and clarity, overall G-H, I-K colour, VS-SI clarity. Good brilliance. The head not by Cartier and later added, detaches from the bracelet and can be worn as a clip. Signs of normal wear to the metal, scratches commensurate with age and wear. Very attractive bracelet. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Throughout the ages, 🌸the serpent has been a popular decorative mot🐓if in jewellery design. From Biblical times to the present, its mythological significance, symbolism connected with wisdom and eternity-the circle 'ouroboros' created by a snake biting its tail-and sinuous curves made the snake a perfect theme for jewellery design.

Snake jewellery was extremely popular in the mid 18th century. Brooches, rings, necklaces and bracelets were fashioned of yellow gold, studded with turquoise, diamond or coloured stones. Sotheby's New York sold a fine example of a gold and diamond Victorian snak✃e necklace inꦍ December 2008, lot 424.

Cartier has long been creating jewels with a serpent motif. Arguably the most famous Cartier snake creation was a necklace designed for the Mexican actress Maria Felix in 1968. This diamond and enamel piece was so well articulated it appeaౠred to be alive. 

The bracelet offered her♛e, created in the 1930-40s, has an African, or Indian inspiration, which was very much in vogue dur💜ing this period.