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Lot 431
  • 431

A Fine and Rare Gold, Lapis Lazuli, Onyx, Jadeite and Coral Annular Desk Timepiece, Vacheron Constantin, Retailed by Ostertag, Circa 1929, No 404672

Estimate
150,000 - 200,000 USD
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Description

  • Gold, Lapis Lazuli, Onyx, Jadeite, Coral, clock
Designed as a gem-set jadeite flowerpot with fanciful exotic flowers composed of carved coral petals and realistic leafage, the rotating chapter ring designed as the rim of the pot with diamond-set Arabic numerals, the time indicated by one angled leaf, the whole surmounted upon a stepped onyx base enhanced with cabochon sapphires at the corners, containing the 15 jewel rectangular mechanical movement, all raised on a beveled lapis lazuli base with four gold feet, all contained within a square glass outer case, the corners fitted with gold cabochon sapphire-set openwork brackets, base signed by Ostertag, movement signed by Vacheron Constantin.

Condition

The movement of the clock is not currently running, but appears as if it just needs cleaning, as it looks like it has not been oiled in a long time. Please speak to department about service on the movement. The movement is numbered 404572. The underside of the plate at the bottom is numbered 10723, which is probably an Ostertag reference number. There is a further 22 scratched there as well. There are a few minor chips to the corners of the lapis lazuli base, most of which are only visible when looking carefully. One of the triangular green stones to the base of the flower pot is missing and another one appears to have been either replaced or re-attached. The screw between 5 and 6 on the rotating bezel has been glued for aesthetic purposes. The underside of the rotating bezel is numbered 723. Three of the leaves and petals on the flower are loose, but all are present and in good condition. There is one very minor chip to the edge of the lower leaf on the back branch. The glass square dome is in good condition. Please refer to the notice regarding the condition of clocks and watches on page 320 of the catalogue.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits are required for export.  If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewelry Department before bidding.

This magnificent clock is an excellent example of the stunning and highly imaginative decorative clocks created during the 1920s and 1930s. Between 1880 and 1930, Vacheron Constantin worked in close collaboration with Verger Frères, a renowned French firm who was known to be the Paris representative of Vacheron Constantin. In this partnership, Vacheron Constantin would create movements, and upon arrival in Paris, Verger Frères would case them in watch and clock cases.

Many of the finest clocks known in the Art Deco period were collaborations by these two celebrated firms. These pieces made brilliant use of carved hardstones, favoring Eastern-themed motifs, resembling Buddhist figures or exotic creatures such as elephants, gazelles, parrots and monkeys.  

Unlike Vacheron Constantin's more traditional clocks that employ a standard two-hand time telling system, the present example features a rotating chapter ring, ingeniously designed as the rim of the flower pot. This annular time-telling method showcases the pinnacle of the technical merits of the watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin, as well as the highly creative work of the artisans at Verger Frères who designed the case.

For a similar piece made by Vacheron Constantin in collaboration with Verger Frères, see Cologni, F., Secrets of Vacheron Constantin, p. 333.

Ostertag, the retailer of this piece, was an exclusive Parisian jeweler with a salon in Place Vendôme in the first half of the twentieth century, run by Arnold Ostertag. Much like the finest jewelers of that era, he too was fascinated by the lavish aesthetic of the Far East, and was particularly taken with Chinese and Indian motifs. The masterpieces in his boutique reflected this interest, and the present lot appears to be a fanciful interpretation of an exotic orchid, calling to mind voyages to far away lands.

Similar pieces were also retailed in many of the other fine jewelry salons of the era, such as Lacloche Frères, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Black, Starr & Frost.