Set in the center with a large cabochon emerald measuring approximately 25.3 by 23.6 mm., framed by black enamel accented by small cabochon emeralds, sugarloaf cabochon emeralds and old European-cut and single-cut diamonds, flanked by engraved pear-shaped emeralds set in the center with table-cut diamonds, outlined by black enamel studded with cabochon rubies, unsigned, original brooch suspended a pearl and onyx tassel.

Set with 14 old European-cut and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately .40 carat, damage to enamel, carved emeralds have chips and irregularities, diamonds are approximately I to J color, SI clarity and decorative for the table-cut diamonds
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Together with a certificate of authenticity from Cartier dated June 1, 2010 numbered NYC2010-14.

The 1920s was, perhaps, the most inventive time period in Cartier's history and the jewels they created in the Indian style are among some of the best they designed and highly coveted by collectors and connoisseurs. 

Cartier jewelry in the Indian taste was made in London. This design source was initiated by commissions in the first decade of the twentieth century from Queen Alexandra and Mary Curzon, wife of the Viceroy of India, to redesign the Indian jewelry they both had received as gifts. This was Cartier's first contact with the exotic world of the Orient.  All aspects of its Indian business from the purchasing of gemstones to contacts with the maharajahs was conducted by Jacques Cartier and the London house.  His travels to India resulted in the firm reworking the treasures of the royal families into fashionable European styles.  Conversely, India's traditional enamel jewelry with its engraved gemstones became something of a craze in Europe. This inspired the designers of Cartier's Art Deco style to create jewelry with a special feeling for the Orient such as their Tutti Frutti designs.

Jacques Cartier frequently traveled to India and it was, most likely, on one of these trips that he acquired the two Mogul pear-shaped emeralds on this brooch, both dating to the eighteenth century, from a princely collection.  Although the emerald was the stone most closely associated with India, the subcontinent had no significant emerald deposits. The emeralds were imported from the mines in Columbia, sent to India by a circuitous route through Spain's colonies in the Philippines and the Far East.

The shape and style of these emeralds indicate they were once either part of the side elements of a bazuband (upper armlet) or formed part of a turban ornament.  Each is engraved on the reverse with a floral design and, on the obverse, set with a table-cut diamond in a gold mounting. The two stones flank a central cabochon-cut emerald set into a black enamel mounting with circular-cut diamonds and cabochon emeralds. Although the design of this brooch is Indian inspired, the decoration around the cabochon emerald has elements of another Cartier design source, the panther that would become an iconic image for the firm in the coming years. 

This brooch epitomizes Cartier's interest in foreign inspirations. The stark contrasts of green emeralds and black enamel with diamonds and rubies provide a colorful exuberance to the design. Like all great Cartier jewelry, the design of this brooch is flawless.  It was made at a time when Cartier was creating designs that functioned as wearable jewels but were, also, works of art. This is a rare opportunity to acquire such a treasure.