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Lot 271
  • 271

Gold, Cat's-Eye Chrysoberyl, Ruby, Diamond and Enamel Pendant-Brooch, Carlo Giuliano, 1863-1895

Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 USD
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Description

  • Carlo Giuliano
  • gold, cat's-eye chrysoberyl, ruby, diamond, enamel, brooch
Of Renaissance Revival-Style, the circular bombé form set in the center with a cabochon cat's-eye chrysoberyl measuring approximately 14.0 mm., accented by oval and round cabochon rubies, and old mine and antique pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 5.00 carats, applied with white and black enamel, signed C.G, with pendant hook, retractable pendant loop, and removeable brooch fitting.

Condition

Instructions for viewing the signature: The signature is located on the basedrum's interior, below the retractable pendant loop. To view the signature, remove the brooch fitting followed by the engraved plate which is held into place by four small screws. Images of the signature are available upon request. Cat's-eye chrysoberyl of dark greenish black background, while the silvery grey cat's eye effect is wide and moderately defined, with 2 small cavities and light surface scratches on the surface. Rubies of deep pinkish purple red color, lightly included and bright. Diamonds of approximately H to I color, VS to SI clarity, with nice brilliance. Enamel with very few minor losses and nicks, principally to the white scrollwork surrounding the center. Overall condition good to very good.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Judging from the dates and the passage from the Book of Proverbs engraved on the backplate, the pendant brooch likely commemorates a 25th wedding anniversary:

'Who can find a virtuous woman?  For her price is far above rubies.  The heart of her husband doth safely trust in her.  She will do him good and not evil all the days of her life.  Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her husband also, and he praiseth her.  Favour is deceitful, and beauty is vain; but a woman that feareth the Lord, she shall be praise.' 1851- May 27th - 1876

A pendant of almost identical design is illustrated as figure 70 in Geoffrey C. Munn's Castellani and Giuliano: Revivalist Jewellers of the 19th Century by where it is described as 'an ambitious jewel from the Giuliano atelier that relates closely to designs for jewellery by Pasquale Novissimo.'  Pasquale Novissimo, generally considered the most talented craftsmen in Giuliano's employ, began designing for the firm in 1874, shortly before this piece is believed to have been made.