Designed in the form of a butterfly, the wings outspread and decorated with plique-à-jour enamel in subtle contrasting hues of sea-foam greenish blue, royal blue and yellowish green, further accented by reflective cabochonné enamel circlets of peacock blue, the delicate gold openwork mounting centering a mauve-colored baroque pearl completed by an articulated diamond-set tail, highlighted throughout by old mine and rose-cut diamonds, the total diamond weight approximately 12.50 carats, signed Vever, Paris, both pendant and brooch fitting detachable.

Sotheby's, London

This brooch is the cover illustration of Jewelled Bugs and Butterflies, Marilyn Nissenson and Susan Jonas, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 2000, and is illustrated again on p.105.

Approximate width of 4½ inches. The mounting in good condition with overall wear, nicking and soft patina commensurate with age. Two of the translucent green-blue enamel cells are moderately "crazed" but appear stable. Several other cells bear minor "crazing". The silvery gray-mauve pearl presents moderate pink, purple and blue overtones, significant wrinkling and a satin-like luster. The old mine-cut diamonds are approximately H-K color, VS-I clarity; the rose-cut diamonds are near colorless and decorative in quality. Signed on the lower rim of the butterfly's right wing.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Henri Vever was a third-generation jeweler who, along with his brother Paul became partners in the family business in 1874. According to their educations and talents, Paul became responsible for the commercial side of the business while Henri managed the creative side. Their collaboration was so successful that they won the Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle of 1889, the first of three such prizes to be granted to them.

The Vever brothers had many sources of inspiration, from naturalistic themes of flora and fauna to classical motifs. In addition, they championed new techniques, especially in the field of enamelling. At the turn of the century, the house of Vever was known for some of the most beautiful of jewels created in the Art Nouveau style, exemplified by the outstanding Butterfly Brooch offered here. In contrast to their more avant-garde contemporaries, Vever's jewels were a bit more restrained in design and they continued to favor the use of precious stones set within finely wrought mountings.  In addition to being one of France's most renowned jewelers, Henri Vever (1854-1942) is remembered as a historian, a critic and a writer. His landmark study La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle remains unequalled as a reference book on French jewelry.