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Lot 166
  • 166

Gold, Platinum, Amethyst and Diamond Pendant-Brooch, Tiffany & Co., Circa 1900

Estimate
30,000 - 50,000 USD
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Description

  • Tiffany & Co.
  • gold, platinum, amethyst, diamond, pendant-brooch
Set in the center with a fancy rectangular star-cut amethyst measuring approximately 16.5 by 9.7 mm., within an openwork frame of foliate design set with old mine and old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.80 carats, accented by round amethysts, supporting an amethyst pendant, signed Tiffany, with pendant loop.  With signed box.

Condition

The pendant brooch is by Tiffany & Co. but the Tiffany signature that appears on the catch of the clasp is likely not original to the piece and was later added, possibly by someone other than Tiffany & Co. Amethysts are a violet-purple color of medium deep tone and are fairly well matched, two small round amethysts are chipped. Diamonds are G-H color and VS-SI clarity overall. There is a small area of solder on the cap of the pendant drop.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

In both Europe and America of the late 19th century, the "Louis Revival" style was exceedingly popular. During this period Tiffany's eminent gemologist, George Frederick Kunz, supplied the firm with quality diamonds and a wide assortment of the finest colored gemstones in the world, including his favored Siberian amethyst which he encouraged Tiffany to use. Furnished with gemstones from Kunz, Tiffany & Co.'s young designer Paulding Farnham, produced jewels in the Louis XVI style which met with great success in the World's Columbian Exhibition held in Chicago in 1893, and at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900.  Henri Vever, the French jeweler and jewelry historian admitted to the French Government in his report on the World's Columbian Exposition about Tiffany's jewels: "We are too much slaves to our routine and too strictly attached to our classic stones". The brooch offered here exhibits a departure from that routine with the deeply-colored amethyst of quite rare and unusual cut, featuring star-like pointed sides. It is "Louis XVI" style presented with a fresh twist of innovation and creativity.