Designed as a fleur de lys decorated with cushion-shaped, circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, set at the centre with a cushion-shaped sapphire, detachable brooch fitting later added.

August von Finck (1898-1980), thence by descent.

Among the many sumptuous parures described in Empress Marie-Louise's will, is an impressive sapphire and diamond set which is cited as having been bequeathed to the Archduke Rainer (1783-1853), viceroy of Lombardy, whose wife was Princess Elisabeth of Savoy-Carignan (1800-1856). When he died, the set was given to his son also name Rainer (1827-1913) whose wife, Archduchess Marie-Caroline, was a first cousin to Empress Marie-Louise. The couple was childless and offered the jewels to their nephew Archduke Leopold-Salvator, son of Archduchess Marie-Caroline's sister, at the time of his wedding with Princess Blanca de Borbón in 1889. She was the daughter of the Duke of Madrid who was a pretendant to the Spanish throne. It is very likely that at this time, the set was remodelled to reinforce the symbolism associated with the 'Fleurs de lys', relating to the Spanish cause. This information was kindly supplied by jewellery historian and author Christophe Vachaudez. Mounted in silver-topped gold. According to the Gübelin report the sapphire measures approximately 16.60 x 13.10 x 5.50 mm; it is calculated to weigh approximately 9.20 carat, as gauged in mounting. Sapphire of light blue saturation, clean to the naked eye, some scratches, nicks and abrasions, for further information please refer to the Gübelin report. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 18.00 - 20.00 carats, on average of H-J colour and VS-I clarity, as gauged and graded in mounting. Brooch fitting easily detachable by unscrewing it. Signs of normal wear to the metal, scratches consistent with use. Well preserved and in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

These three brooches (along with lot 575) were once thought to have belonged to the collection of Marie Louise of Austria, Duchess of Parma, second wife of Emperor Napoleon I. Today, however, they are believed to originate from a later period and are thus more likely to have belonged to Empress Maria Luisa of Bourbon-Parma (1870 - 1899), wife of Ferdinand I of Bulgaria (1861 - 1948). Member of the House of Bourbon, the fleur de lys figured prominently on her family coat of arms. This symbol can also be seen on the tiara created for her by the Viennese jeweller Köchert, on the occasion of her marriage in 1893.

Among the many sumptuous parures described in Empress Marie-Louise's will, is an impressive sapphire and diamond set which is cited as having been bequeathed to the Archduke Rainer (1783-1853), viceroy of Lombardy, whose wife was Princess Elisabeth of Savoy-Carignan (1800-1856). When he died, the set was given to his son also name Rainer (1827-1913) whose wife, Archduchess Marie-Caroline, was a first cousin to Empress Marie-Louise. The couple was childless and offered the jewels to their nephew Archduke Leopold-Salvator, son of Archduchess Marie-Caroline's sister, at the time of his wedding with Princess Blanca de Borbón in 1889. She was the daughter of the Duke of Madrid who was a pretendant to the Spanish throne. It is very likely that at this time, the set was remodelled to reinforce the symbolism associated with the 'Fleurs de lys', relating to the Spanish cause.

This information was kindly 💎supplied by j🍨ewellery historian and author Christophe Vachaudez.