Of Indian inspiration, centering a cushion-cut emerald weighing approximately 41.20 carats, accented by numerous round, baguette, pear-shaped, old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 11.55 carats, decorated with two stylized birds, further set with round and hexagon-shaped emeralds and five cabochon rubies, unsigned; circa 1945. With fitted Cartier box.

In good condition. The emerald is a strongly saturated medium deep slightly bluish green, lightly included with some minor abrading to the facet junctions, visible under magnfication. The round and octagonal emeralds are of similar color, though moderately included with surface reaching fractures. The rubies are a medium deep purplish red, lightly included. The diamonds are approximately G-I color, VS-SI clarity. Very well made, with excellent detailing to the gold throughout. Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 56438 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 56438 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.

Although unsigned, this brooch is reminiscent of Cartier jewels inspired by the Indian aesthetic dating from between 1913 and the late 1940s. Other jewels by Cartier from the same Distinguished Family Collection utilize similar techniques, combining an array of vibrant colors, stones of unusual shapes and intricate metalwork to create pieces that are highly stylized and contemporary in nature, despite being inspired by visual traditions hundreds of years old.  After Jacques Cartier’s first voyage to India in 1911, Indian-inspired jewels emerged from the design house as the Maharajas and the Indian elite started to ask for their traditional jewels to be re-set and re-worked to fit the new Parisian styles they so admired. 

This brooch is a lovely complement to lots 455 and 458 from the same collection, both in style and technique. Like the two additional lots signed by Cartier, the present brooch capitalizes on the regal power of the emerald. Similar to lot 458, the emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier London, this brooch encases the 41.20 carat Colombian emerald in a delicate but ornate diamond frame. Many of the Cartier jewels of Indian inspiration pull their designs from the flora and fauna of India. One can see intricate floral designs in pieces such as lot 455, the ruby and emerald earclips. In this particular brooch, two exotic birds with their necks elegantly craned hover over and around the emerald-set center.