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Lot 304
  • 304

18 Karat Gold and Favrile Glass Scarab Necklace, Primavesi & Kaufmann

Estimate
15,000 - 20,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

  • gold, glass
Set with seven large favrile glass scarabs spaced by flattened oval-shaped curb links, gross weight approximately 125 dwts, length 20 inches, with maker's mark; late 1950s. With signed pouch.

Condition

In very good condition. Very minor wear to the surface of the yellow gold in the form of minor abrasions consistent with age. Glass beetles in very good condition, with no visible loss, or breaks.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

In the late 1950’s, the Montreal jewelers Primavesi & Kaufmann (c.1954-1988) fashioned this necklace and bracelet (lots 303 and 304), using 10 scarabs from a necklace purportedly made by Tiffany & Co. around 1915.  There are many examples of jewels designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany from this period which incorporate the distinctive favrile glass scarabs for which he was known. The woman who commissioned the re-design had inherited the necklace from her father (a Canadian Railroad magnate) around 1920. For her, the present bold re-design was more fashionable for the period of the late 1950’s. These jewels remained in her collection following her later move from Montreal to Palm Beach. Thence by descent, it was inherited by the present owner.  
 
It is interesting to note that the distinctive maker’s mark for Primavesi & Kaufmann found on both lots is a graphic symbol reminiscent of the trademark associated with the Austrian design collective, the Wiener Werkstatte. It was Otto Primavesi who helped to finance the Wiener Werkstatte, so the young Thomas Primavesi must have been influenced by this association when creating such a distinctive mark.