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Lot 304
  • 304

Enamel, natural pearl and gold pendent necklace, 'Iris', René Lalique, circa 1900, and a chain

Estimate
98,000 - 148,000 CHF
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Description

  • Gold, enamel and pearl
The pendant designed as two gold iris, the stems of scroll design decorated with plique-à-jour green enamel, suspending a collet-set baroque drop shaped freshwater natural pearl, on an enamelled gold chain necklet, length approximately 560mm, signed Lalique, French assay and maker's marks, fitted case stamped Lalique.

Provenance

Purchased in 1976 by the present owner from a member of the Lalique family. 

Condition

Signed Lalique on reverse of pendant, maker's mark on clasp of the chain. Stamped with French assay marks for 18 carat gold. Silvery white pearl with some blemishes and growth marks, enamel on chain with few small areas of loss, otherwise in good condition, enamel on pendant with some areas of loss and signs of repair. Clasp secure. Signs of normal wear to the metal, scratches consistent with use. In overall good condition. Gross weight approximately 50 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The three Lalique jewels offered here are exemplary of the jeweller’s oeuvre. The iris pendant is a shining example of Lalique’s fascination with nature and the larger japonisme movement that had enraptured Europe. With detailed gold and enamelwork, Lalique created a jewel that evokes nature’s beauty as well as Japan’s past.

The sautoir highlights his mastery of gold, with a keen eye on form. The links interweave intricately🔯, resulting in a piece that is at once solid and ephemeral, geometric and organic.

Lastly, the rock crystal pendant necklace, highlighted by two caryatid figures in diaphanous robes, shows𝓀 Lalique’s mastery of the human form. Exquisitely carved, the figuresဣ display a timeless beauty reminiscent of Classical architecture.

The canon of Lalique remains one of the most innovative and inspired of any jeweller’s. Drawing on popular tropes, nature and art, he created works that, though evocative of previous jewels, dramatically changed the landscape of jewellery at the beginning of the 20th century and serves today as the definiꦑng work of the Art Nouveau.