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Lot 355
  • 355

A set of human and horse armour, India, Mughal or Deccan, 16th/17th century

Estimate
35,000 - 45,000 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

  • textile, velvet, gilt-brass
comprising human armour, including padded protective body plates joined by hinges with matching shoulder panel, decorated with woven fish-scale design and gilt-pin motifs around edges, the horse armour featuring a gilt-brass chamfron with applied cloth lining, a large purple side-panel with gilt-brass roundels within framing arabesques, the bottom lined with flowerhead motifs composed of gilt-brass sections, with hanging fringe, the shoulder panels shaped as palmettes, red and green with gilt roundels and pin designs, the larger neck panels with gilt-roundel designs, all with padding

Condition

Overall in fair and very fragile condition, incomplete, loose parts, the human body-plates and shoulder pad in fairly good condition, some tears to lining, worn velvet ground and sections of gilt brass missing, the side-horse armour with large tear to textile on top left-hand corner and many loose and missing gilt-sections, the fringe with some small sections missing, discolouration to purple textile and red section in centre, one neck panel in generally good condition with some wear, the other with tears and some missing gilt decoration as well as heavy staining and discoloration, the two larger shaped neck panels burnt, discoloured, the chamfron with some sections rubbed, some scratches and oxidisation visible to reverse, the lining around exterior missing, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

This group of human and horse armour presents us with a fascinating insight into not only the trading networks between the Ottoman Empire and the Deccani Sultanates but are also rare survivors of Deccani fabric armour.

The tombak chamfron is probably the most emblematic of Ottoman influence, resembling in technique and design the classic Ottoman types (many examples of which are in the Askeri (military) Museum, Istanbul). A comparable Deccani example, composed of iron and dated 1617 was included in the recent exhibition Sultans of Deccan India, 1500-1700: Opulence and Fantasy at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (cat. no. 121, MET inv. no. 2008.197). The large horse cover, with a purple silk and cotton ground set with tombak mounts is a true rarity, no known examples from India recorded before the nineteenth century, and so in comparison, we must cite Ottoman examples, notably a piece with a similar hanging fringe published in Petrasch, Sanger, Zimmermann, Majer 1991, nos. 32-34, pp.103-7, captured as Turkish booty, probably from the siege of Vienna (see lots 401 & 402). 

The breast-jacket is composed of a cotton padding with a mixed silk surface, a classic Deccani feature adjusted to the heat, this texture also explaining its rare survival. A comparable "cuirass made of hide, covered with velvet and studded with nails" was recorded by Lord Egerton of Tatton (Lord Egerton of Tatton: Indian and Oriental Armour, London, 1896, fig. 29, p.120). Another, full body suit with helmet is in the Clive Collection at Powis Castle, described in Lady Clive's 1801 list of items to bring back, and also composed of red padded velvet, silk and cotton lining with gilt copper studs, attributed to Indore, along with another suit in the Wallace Collection (Robinson 1967, pl.xv A&B) (Archer, Rowell, Skelton 1987, pp.36-37, no. 1). 

This style of quilting decorated with tombak mounts with embroidered designs is reflective of the multiple influences, Ottoman, Mughal and Deccani converging at the Deccani court and also associated with Tipu Sultan (see Sotheby's, The Tipu Sultan Collection, London, 25 May 2005, lots 23-25). 

A variety of human and horse armour is depicted in the miniature from Emperor Akbar's royal copy of the Jami al-Tawarikh attributed to Basawan included in this sale as lot 273.