Centering three rock crystal reverse intaglios depicting skeletons, within a flexible bib composed of ivy leaves, accented by four gold skulls, decorated by rose-cut diamonds of brown hue weighing approximately 4.30 carats, gross weight approximately 121 dwts, internal circumference 18 inches, signed Codognato; after 1940. With signed box.

Illustrated in the exhibition catalogue for C'est la vie! Vanitès de Pompéï à Damien Hirst, Musée Maillol, Paris, February 3, 2010-June 28, 2010, page 131.

In good condition with gentle wear to the mounting and areas of minor discoloration to the reverse. The leaves are realistically rendered with fine texturing and veining to both sides. Minor discoloration and scratching to the mirrored finish beneath the reverse intaglio crystals, adding to the piece's antique aesthetic. The intaglios retaining a nice polish. The rose-cut diamonds in varying shades of light brown and predominantly SI clarity.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Please note the diamonds have not been tested for natural origin of color.

Founded near St. Mark's square, the firm of Codognato has been creating jewels since 1866 that are prized for their quintessentially Venetian combination of exoticism and drama. The Romantics’ view of Venice had long been a source of inspiration for the Codognato family, including the city’s fascination with the strange and morbid.

The two necklaces illustrated here derive their meanings from the Catholic Church’s use of memento mori symbolism. Translating to ‘Reminder of Death,’ these symbols were often used by the Church to remind worshipers that only a life devoted to prayer could help avoid eternal punishment upon death. At the same time that memento mori images became widespread, skeletal figures were used as a reminder of the fragility (and unavoidable end) of earthly life. It was during this turbulent time, filled with wars and the Black Plague, that these saturnine symbols increased in popularity.

These two Codognato collars, from the mid-20^th century, balance the idea of eternal glory (as symbolized with the use of ivy and an overwhelming presence of gold) with the imminent threat of death (as symbolized with the skeletons and skulls). It is also important to note that the ‘Pierrot’ necklace in particular uses the original religious overtones of memento mori as originally used by the Catholic Church. The central intaglio features a ‘Grim Reaper’-like skeleton flanked on his right with the holy symbols of the papal tiara and crosier, and on his left with ambiguous symbols which appear to represent a spear and a crown, referring to the Crucifixion. It is most fitting that this intaglio, illustrating symbols of both life and death, is set at the center of this design as it perfectly encompasses the memento mori creed.