- 1765
Pair of Coloured Stone and Diamond Ear Clips, Bulgari
Description
- Bulgari
- sapphire, ruby, diamond, gold
Condition
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Catalogue Note
A Century of Italian Splendor
When the Rome-based jewellery House Bulgari first made its appearance in Via dei Condotti in 1905, his founder Sortirio Bulgari was specialist in engravings of precious silver object who just started to deal in gemstones and jewels. In the subsequent decades, S. Bulgari successfully shifted its focus to high jewellery, consolidating international fame thanks to a devoted and prestigious clientele; yet nobody can argue that the House’s most defining moments came in the fifties and sixties, when Bulgari’s distinctive style, unique aesthetics and fine craftsmanship earned itself a reputation among the master jewellers in the world. Exquisite jewels created during this post-war era marked some of the House’s most glamourous panache and pioneer spirit that are still evident in their contemporary designs.
The economic boom after the war signified a return of jewellery set lavishly with precious gemstones, and above all, with diamonds. This general monochromatic trend continued well into the fifties, however, motifs and lines are more sinuous and soft as compared to the Art Deco era; three-dimensional design of furled ribbons was also a typical trait at that time. Some of the magnificent necklaces created by Bulgari during this time also reflected this vogue, often punctuated by large diamonds, with an arrangement that demonstrated purity of form and a certain compactness that was unprecedented (Lot 1768).
Other emerging characteristics that would eventually become Bulgari signature style were the use of colours and cabochon cut precious stones, both of which harked back to elements from Renaissance. There was a visible predilection for rounded shapes and distinguished chromatic palettes in all designs, granting each piece voluminous grandeur and visual impact that was easily recognisable as Bulgari’s creations (Lot 1765).
We could be reminded of Bulgari’s prominence during the sixties and seventies from its illustrious list of patrons. It was a time when stars and divas such as Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida and Ingrid Bergman could be seen wearing their splendid Bulgari jewellery in films, a time when Bulgari was not afraid to play up importance of colourful gemstones which had then become their specialty, and a time when stones were selected not only for its alluring colour, but also their impressive sizes and fine quality.
No one would deny that Bulgari has always been a true maestro of colours. Gemstones in their myriad hues are experimented with, accentuated, juxtaposed; adding clean lines, smooth contours and their sense for antiquity to the mix, and they all crystallise in a unique design vocabulary that never conforms with jewellery standards of a particular era. The pair of opulent ruby and diamond earrings to be offered (Lot 1767), set with two stunningly matching Burmese Mogok rubies, stands as a perfect testament to the Italian master’s sublime artistry, as well as an epitome of Bulgari’s exclusive magnetism and eminent style.