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Lot 278
  • 278

18 Karat Two-Color Gold, Coral, Cultured Pearl, Colored Stone and Diamond 'Memento Mori' Brooch, Tony Duquette

Estimate
15,000 - 20,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

  • TONY DUQUETTE
  • gold, coral, cultured pearl, colored stone, diamond
Centering a coral skull, within a frame composed of petrified wood branches and red coral branches, accented by black cultured pearls measuring approximately 16.6 to 15.5 mm, decorated with gold flies, further set with round diamonds weighing approximately 3.35 carats and oval-shaped fire opals, gross weight approximately 161 dwts, signed Tony Duquette.

Condition

In good condition. The coral skull is a medium-light peachy orange color with significant veining of dark non-precious material complemented by polyp holes and fissures, all serving to enhance its macabre appeal. The muted red sponge coral branches are significantly veined and reveal polyp holes throughout. The petrified wood in shades of bone and taupe are evenly veined with the ends revealing growth rings. The silvery dark gray to black pearls present faint to moderate blue, purple, green and pink overtones, moderate blemishing in the form of pitting, ringing and uneven skins, and waxy to good luster. The gold flies are drill-set into each pearl. The fire opals in varying shades of yellow and orange range from transparent and eye-clean to translucent. The diamonds are approximately G-H color, VS-SI clarity. The diamond-set and fire opal elements are mounted directly into the coral and petrified wood branches. Fitted with a double pinstem clip mechanism to distribute the weight of the brooch. Best worn on thicker fabrics.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Memento Mori, which translates from Latin as “remember that you must die”, has its roots in the medieval tradition of reminding us that death is inevitable.  In art this reflection on mortality is most often symbolized by the skull, which has appeared in paintings, sculpture and jewelry across centuries and cultures.  Popular paintings of the 17th century juxtaposed skulls with symbols of life (fruit or flowers) and the passage of time (an hourglass or extinguished candle), signifying that life on earth was merely preparation for what was to come.

While countless jewelers have incorporated skulls in their designs from Cartier to Codognato, no one has interpreted the motif more dramatically than Tony Duquette. Duquette’s vision of Memento Mori is a twisted nest of branch coral, gold and fire opals, diamond-studded spikes, carved coral skulls and black pearls adorned with golden flies. If one is to focus on the afterlife, rather than earthly pursuits, than this version of Memento Mori offers us much to look forward to.

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits are required for export. If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewelry Department before bidding.