Centering an emerald-cut emerald weighing 8.24 carats, flanked by modified triangle-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 2.60 carats, size 2¾, signed J.E.C. & Co., numbered S4756.

In good condition. The emerald is a rich, medium-deep slightly bluish green and lightly included. There is a moderate to significant chip to the girdle and minute surface reaching fractures. The diamonds are approximately E-F color, VVS-VS clarity. The shank of the ring is very out of round and even though it registers as a size 2 3/4 on a mandrel, it fits more like a size 4. Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 1073196 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby’s is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby’s is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby’s does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD “AS IS” IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 1073196 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement.

James E. Caldwell founded his namesake business in Philadelphia in 1832. Trained as a silversmith in New York City, Caldwell later applied his metalworking skills to gold and platinum paving the way for the next generation of Caldwell artisans to establish themselves as leaders in Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry. The curvilinear figural and organic motifs they employed at the turn-of-the-century transitioned into the delicate platinum mountings, often chased and pierced with symmetrically arranged foliate motifs, for which the firm became so well known. Philadelphia’s elite, wishing to emulate their sophisticated European cousins, flocked to Caldwell for hand-crafted jewelry in the new, Art Deco style. Often referred to as the Tiffany of Philadelphia, the firm continued to work with a loyal clientele, creating exquisite pieces such as the jewels offered here which, though dating from the mid-twentieth century, are eminently timeless.  

The jewels gracing these pages reflect the keen eye and exceptional taste of a man who believed his wife should have the very best: a Kashmir sapphire, Burmese ruby, no-oil emerald, and a Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond. The “canary” diamond was given to his wife after she had admired another woman’s yellow diamond. She was delighted to receive lot 284 but, realizing her Caldwell creation outshone its source of inspiration, she was careful not to wear it at parties where her friend might be in attendance. For the engagement ring, her husband selected a stone that was “whiter than white” which GIA testing has proven to be a Fancy Light Blue diamond. Each ring marks a special occasion in the couple’s marriage and was followed by a bracelet to match. The spectacular Kashmir sapphire ring (lot 286), for example, is paired with a superbly made sapphire and diamond bracelet (lot 287), and emerald and ruby bracelets were also created, though not offered here. These frequent visits to J.E. Caldwell led to a close collaboration between client and jeweler, the former’s passion for perfection being answered by the jeweler’s superior craftsmanship and refined style.