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Lot 315
  • 315

Platinum, Diamond and Onyx Brooch, René Boivin, France

Estimate
250,000 - 350,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

  • René Boivin
  • platinum, diamond, onyx
The elongated C-form, with terminals set with old mine-cut diamonds weighing 7.01 and 6.98 carats, accented by calibré-cut onyx, with French assay and maker's marks; circa 1910-1915.

Condition

In good condition. The onyx plaques are slightly irregular so the borders aren't entirely flush with one another. Length approximately 2 1/4 inches. The workshop and assay marks are located on the pinstem. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2165215966 stating that the 7.01 carat diamond is G color, VS2 clarity. Accompanied by GIA report no. 5161215980 stating that the 6.98 carat diamond is I color, SI2 clarity.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby’s is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby’s is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby’s does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD “AS IS” IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from Françoise Cailles

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2165215966 stating that the 7.01 carat diamond is G color, VS2 clarity.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 5161215980 stating that the 6.98 carat diamond is I color, SI2 clarity.

Founded by René Boivin in the 1890s, the house of Boivin holds a remarkable place in the history of jewelry. Boivin was trained as goldsmith and initially earned a reputation throughout Paris for his skill as an engraver. His use of unconventional materials, his remarkable attention to detail, and his unbounding imagination allowed him to create fantastical and beautiful pieces. The French elite found his jewels which were inspired by botany, Animalia, as well as ancient Asian, European and Middle Eastern cultures, irresistible. Following his death in 1917, Maison Boivin was left to his wife, Jeanne, who proved to be a female pioneer in a trade dominated by men. She not only established herself as an innovator and an artist experimenting with color, form, and size, but also as a visionary who is responsible for hiring Suzanne Belperron,  one of the most prominent female jewelry designers of the early 20th century. 

The brooch offered here, features two old European-cut diamonds in a platinum setting, linked together by pieces of calibré-cut black onyx, also mounted in platinum. The curved line of black onyx, which appears to grow out of the old mine-cut diamonds, mirrors the curve of the stones to create a sense of continuous movement in the brooch. The black and white color scheme, simplicity in design and well-proportioned shapes make for elegant and wearable brooch. Boivin created jewelry that was both modern and captivating in design and unparalleled in quality; the jewelry from the house of Boivin still achieves this today, their distinct and forward-thinking designs remaining as they were in the early 20th century.