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Lot 252
  • 252

Three ruby and diamond brooches, late 19th century

Estimate
350,000 - 550,000 CHF
bidding is closed

Description

  • Gold, silver, ruby and diamond
Each of scroll design, set with cushion-, marquise-shaped, circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, the largest brooch highlighted with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 7.48 carats and pear- and marquise-shaped rubies, the two others set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 3.13 and 3.59 carats respectively, later brooch fittings, two small diamonds deficient.

Condition

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 88182, stating that the three cushion-shaped rubies weighing 3.13, 3.59 and 7.48 carats, and measuring 8.59 x 8.09 x 4.45mm, 8.94 x 7.37 x 5.44mm and 12.44 x 10.92 x 4.98mm, are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Also accompanied by GRS report no. GRS2015-127507, stating that the cushion-shaped ruby calculated to weigh approximately 3.00 carats and measuring 8.94 x 7.36 x (nd)mm, is of Burmese origin, with no indication of thermal treatment, GRS type "pigeon's blood"; no. GRS2015-127508, stating that the cushion-shaped ruby calculated to weigh approximately 3.40 carats and measuring 8.57 x 8.07 x (nd)mm, is of Burmese origin, with no indication of thermal treatment; no. GRS2015-127509-2, stating that the cushion-shaped ruby calculated to weigh approximately 9.20 carats and measuring 12.43 x 10.91 x (nd)mm, and the two pear-shaped rubies calculated to weigh approximately 1.90 and 2.40 carats and measuring 11.80 x 6.20 x 3.10mm and 12.00 x 5.90 x 4.30mm respectively, are of Burmese origin, with no indication of thermal treatment. Rubies well matched in colour, red of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching and nicks, scratches, cavities and abrasions. For more information on the rubies, please refer to the gemmological reports. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 28.00 - 32.00 carats, on average K-M colour (a few of yellow tint), SI-I clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount, two small diamonds deficient. In good condition. Total gross weight approximately 75 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The three fine jewels offered here were originally part of an important necklace belonging to a prominent banker and landowner based both in Constantinople and Paris at the end of the 19th century. He was a Knight of the Greek Order of Saint Saviour and an important figure of the Greek diaspora in Paris at the turn of the century. He especially supported the construction of the Greek Orthodox Cathedral on the rue Georges Bizet in Paris in 1895. 

The photograph reproduced above portrays his wife wearing the jewels as a delicate necklace on the occasion of her presentation to the Court of Edward VII in 1902, as recorded in The London Times Court Circular on the 14th of June 1902. The picture was taken in the Lafayette Studios in Bond Street in London, which specialised in official Court portrait photography. In the portrait, the lady is wearing a dress with a long train, probably a creation of the Maison Worth in Paris. Her hair is highlighted with the three feather headdress and tulle veil reserved for married ജladies for the Court presentation. 

The jewel has remained in the same family since that time and was🌠 modified to its actual form in the late 19🅰20s.