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Lot 100
  • 100

Gold, Enamel, Onyx and Natural Pearl Choker

Estimate
15,000 - 20,000 USD
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Description

  • gold, enamel, onyx, pearl
The eight strands of pearls measuring approximately 4.41 to 3.83 mm, anchored by an enameled plaque depicting two birds supporting a natural pearl tassel terminating in carved onyx drops, length 14 inches, unsigned; circa 1900.

Exhibited

Exhibited October 19, 2008 through January 18, 2009 at the Cleveland Museum of Art.

Literature

Illustrated in Stephen Harrison, Emmanuel Ducamp and Jeannine Falino, Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique, pages 5-7, cat. 99 and attributed to Falize Frères.

Condition

In good condition. Enameling intact. Pearls are a creamy golden color with very good luster and minor blemishing. Accompanied by the GIA report no. 2115044107 stating that the pearls are natural, saltwater.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115044107 stating that the pearls are natural, saltwater.

The 19th century French jeweler Alexis Falize and his son Lucien developed techniques and styles of enamel work inspired by motifs from various ancient cultures. During the decades of the 1860s and 70s they exhibited jewels in both the Persian and Indian styles. Several examples are illustrated in Falize: A Dynasty of Jewelers, by Katherine Purcell (pages 219-224). The pearl strands or "fringe" suspended from the necklace offered here, represent elements of Indian jewelry design that appear in jewelry sketches by Falize, c.f. the earrings illustrated on page 221, no. 203. In the case of this necklace, the centered plaque of enamel with its flanking birds and floral motifs may have derived more from Indian sources rather than Persian, however in Falize's descriptions of their jewels, there is sometimes a blurred distinction between the two. The styling of this necklace would have been suited to the fashion trend, late in the decade of 1890, for jewels worn high around the neck. Although this necklace does not bear the maker's mark for Falize Frères, it is entirely plausible that Falize was responsible for its manufacture. Not all Falize jewels were signed, but can be recognized by their distinctive enamel work.