168开奖官方开奖网站查询

Lot 251
  • 251

Gem set and diamond bracelet, 1950s

Estimate
120,000 - 150,000 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

  • diamond, onyx, ruby, emerald, sapphire, platinum, 18 carat gold
Designed as an articulated flowering branch, set with carved emerald flowers and carved sapphire and ruby leaves, further accented with onyx, sapphire and ruby cabochons and set throughout with single-cut, marquise-shaped and baguette diamonds, length approximately 182mm, French assay marks.

Condition

French assay marks indicating 18 carat gold and platinum, and indistinct French maker's mark to clasp tongue, incised inventory mark 4843. Emeralds mid to deep green, transparent to translucent, with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye, many surface-reaching. Sapphires deep blue, rubies dark purplish-red, both transparent to translucent, also with typical inclusions visible to the naked eye. Slight variations in colour and saturation. Tiny chips on some of the onyxes. Diamonds approximately I-J on average, VS clartity on average, as graded within the limitations of the mount. Estimated total diamond weight approximately 9.00 - 11.00 carats. Clasp closes securely, in good working order, security clasp closes. Mount show signs of wear, light surface scratches, pits and scratches. Stones with surface-reaching inclusions, with areas of minor chipping. Articulation good. Width approximately 23mm. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Though dating from the 1950's, the design of this bracelet draws its inspiration from a series of jewels produced by Cartier in the 1920's known as ‘Tutti Frutti’. Throughout a series of trips to India starting in 1911 Jacques Cartier was awarded commissions from figures such as the Maharajas of Patiala and Kapurthala to remount their jewellery collections in the contemporary Parisian style. The carved stones found in these Indian jewels captured the imagination of Cartier and his gifted designer Charles Jacqueau, who framed them within the fashionable art deco aesthetic. Setting them in bracelets designed as meandering vines, and clustering them into giardinetto brooches, these new designs created a vogue for Indian-style jewels and fashions that spread throughout Europe and America, and had an enduring influence on the designs of a number of other jewellery houses throughout the twentieth century.

Cf:. Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Thames & Hudson, London, 2007, pages 155-175, for more information on this style of jewellery.