Composed of three hinged rectangular aubergine-colour enamel plaques applied with variously coloured hardstone flowerhead motifs and jade leaves, highlighted with rose diamonds and further embellished with carved lapis lazuli, the mount chased in a floral and foliate pattern, length approximately 180mm, Austrian export mark for gold.

Sotheby's Geneva, Magnificent Jewels, 20 May 1992, Lot 231.

Cf.: C. Gere, The Art of The Jeweller, A Catalogue of The Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum, Vol. I, pg. 190, no 1178 and Vol. II, pg. 319, no 1178 and colour plate 63, for examples of carved hardstone jewellery by Ernst Paltscho. Cf.: S. Tennenbaum and J Zapata, The Jeweled Garden, London, bracelet by Ernst Paltscho.

Austrian export mark for 18 carat gold. Aubergine-colour enamel overall in good condition, some loss at the edges of the plaques. Hardstones and jade in good condition, minor abrasions. Lapis lazuli in good condition. Diamonds bright and lively. Scratches to the metal consistent with age and use. Clasp secure, safety catch. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 57 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The beautifully carved flowers and leaves closely resemble the work of the Viennese jewellery house Paltscho. Founded in 1899 by Ernst Paltscho (1858-1929), the house is known in Austria as the "Jewelers of the Kings". Their most important customers include well-known Austro-Hungarian aristocrats and the King of Greece. Beginning of 1918 his son Erwin manages the company, he became known for his spectacular jewels set with colourful, beautifully observed flowers in carved hardstones, several examples of which are similar to those seen here.