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Lot 24
  • 24

A GEM-SET GOLD NECKLACE (LEBBA), MOROCCO, PROBABLY FEZ OR MEKNES, CIRCA 18TH CENTURY |

Estimate
25,000 - 35,000 GBP
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Description

  • Area of beads: 31cm.Total length of necklace: 141cm.
the necklace composed of ten gold almond-shaped ribbed beads, with nine hanging pendants consisting of various shaped beads, including palmettes, flowerheads, and crescent moons, featuring a large emerald set into a floral gold bead surrounded by further gemstones of various colours and polychrome enamel details to reverse, woven rope for attachment

Condition

The piece weighs 414.3 grams. In generally good condition, some of the enamels on the front and reverse slightly rubbed or missing in some sections, the stones with inclusions and in some cases cylindrical drill holes visible indicating that they were once used as beads; minor dents in gold beads, some of the minor stones later replacement, the robe for hanging for some wear consistent with use. One of the beads with minor piercing, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

This opulent gem-set gold necklace is symbolic of the important role played by jewellery in Moroccan marriage ritual. Produced in the eighteenth century and worn by both Muslim and Jewish brides, these lebbas, or jewelled gold ceremonial necklaces with pendants were designed to cover the entire chest area, and would have been complemented with additional large earrings, bracelets and in some instances a crown. Most probably produced in Fez, influences in the shape and design of this necklace can be traced to medieval forms imported into Morocco through both the Jewish and Arab communities that migrated from Spain. A similar necklace is in the Museum of the Udayas, Rabat, Morocco (inv. no. D 3705).

For an image illustrating a Moroccan woman wearing a traditional outfit with a similar necklace, see: V. Gonzalez, Emaux d'al-Andalus et du Maghreb, Édisud, Aix-en-Provence, France, 1994, p.185, no.138.  Similar lebbas, of slightly varied designs, were sold in these rooms, Arts of the Islamic World, 9th April 2014, lot 201 and 25th April 2012, lot 658 and a very high price achieved at Christie’s, Art of the Islamic and Indian Worlds, 17th April 2007, lot 324.