Property from the Family of the Original Owner
Reference 1680 ‘Red’ Submariner | Retailed by Tiffany & Co.: A stainless steel automatic wristw𝓀atch with date and bracelet, Circa 1974
Auction Closed
December 6, 09:17 PM GMT
Estimate
40,000 - 60,000 USD
Lot Details
Description
Dial: black
Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
Case: stainless steel, screw down case back
Case number: 3’740’344
Closure: stainle🌠ss steel Rolex Oyster folded link bracelet with folding c🎶lasp
Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumferencꦕe is🅷 approximately 180 mm
Signed: case and movement signed by maker, dial signed by maker and re🐈tailer
Box: yes
Papers: no
Accessories: Tiffany & Co. presentation box, Rolex service box, polishing cloth, service booklet, and service invoices dated 🌠15 August 1989 and 24 June 1996
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 holds🌳 a special place in the history of not just Rolex, but dive watches in general. Introduced around 1969, the 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, marking a significant innovation for Rolex's popular dive watch line. It also marked a shift from a simple "tool" dive watch to more of a luxury watch, with the addition of the date function—a desirable, though unnecessary, complication for a dive watch. The "Red" nickname comes from the distinctive red lettering of the word "Submariner" on the dial, a unique design feature that appeared only on early production models but was recently revived on the Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600.
Tiffany & Co. is undoubtedly the most historic and prestigious luxury retailer in the United States. Established in 1838 by Charles Lewis Tiffany and John Young with a ꧋$1,000 loan from Tiffany’s father, the first store opened on Broadway before later moving to their flagship location on Fifth Avenue and being renamed Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co.’s relationship with watches dates back to their earliest days. They have reserved their horological partnerships for the world’s two most preeminent watch brands: Patek Philippe and Rolex.
In the mid-1950s, Tiffany joined a select group of retailers worldwide granted the p🐭rivilege of printing their logo on the dials of Rolex’s most prestigious models. For most of their relationship, Rolex allowed Tiffany to stamp the dials at their Fifth Avenue premises, a process completed by Tiffany watchmakers rather than at the Rolex factory in Switzerland. The exact number of Tiffany-dialed Rolex watches from this era is unknown, but they are undoubtedly extremely rare and represent some of the most sought-after, desirable, and iconic watches to ever come to market.
The combination of a rare "Red" Submariner 1680 with a Tiffany & Co. double signature is 🍷an exceptionally rare occurrence. The current example comes directly from the family of the original owner and is accompanied by its original Tiffany & Co. presentation box, Rolex service box, polishing cloth, service booklet, and service invoices dated August 15, 1989, and June 24, 1996.