Cartier, Paris
A rare and unusual 18ct yellow gold and bloodstone boudoir timepi⭕ece set with turquoises and an applied ladybird motif | No. 01369🍷9 | Circa 1960
Auction Closed
May 11, 11:29 AM GMT
Estimate
10,000 - 20,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
No. 013699
Circa 1960
· calibre 745 movement, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, compensation balance, adjusted, Incabloc shock absorber, signed Universal Genève
· white dial signed Cartier, black Roman numerals, blued steel feuille hands
· timepiece with 18ct yellow case and strut support, mounted within bloodstone body of tapered form with canted upper corners, asymmetrical bloodstone panels to front forming quadrantal cross with diagonal arms, gold rectangular mounts at the quarters each set with a single rectangular cabochon turquoise, gold ladybird to lower right corner heightened by red and black enamel, bloodstone pediment of matching tapered form separated from the body by a gold frame, veined marble panel inset to reverse of bloodstone body, gold case back to timepiece marked 0.750, with Swiss Lynx import and French eagle’s head assay, further eagle assay to side, etch numbered 013699, cover interior signed ETS Worms, hinged strut support marked 0.750 and scratch numbered 013699, case back and strut support stamped SCA within oval cartouche for Cartier Société Anonyme
Dimensions 90 mm x 77 mm
Christie’s Geneva, ♔Jewellery and Objects b✱y Cartier, 27 May 1993, lot 651
This Cartier timepiece’s refined craftsmanship and use of bold materials unites the deep, rich tones of bloodstone with the vibrant contrast of turquoise and the delicate charm of an enamell🌺ed ladybird. The case is sculpted in a dramatic wedge form, its strongly angled silhouette lending it a monolithic presence, wh💜ile the turquoises mark the quarters, the crisp geometry of their gold settings serve to heighten the precision of the design.
Beyond their visual contrast, the pairing of bloodstone and turquoise carries a deeper significance. Bloodstone, with its dark green body flecked with crimson, has long been associated with strength and vitality, while turquoise, prized for its luminous blue-green brilliance, has been revered as a symbol of protection and good fortune. Turquoise was prominently used by Cartier during the Egyptian Revival period of the Art Deco era, when the stone evoked the colours of ancient Egyptian jewellery and ornamentation. Its use here recalls that tradition while integrating seamless💎ly into a distinctly modernist composition.
Reinforcing this connection to symbolism, a gold ladybird, decorated in red and black enamel, is applied to the lower right side of the bloodstone case. A universal emblem of luck, renewal, and protection, the ladybird softens the sculptural form of the case, its organic curves providing a subtle✃ counterpoint to the clock’s angularity. Together, the materials and motifs create a sense of balance and sophistication.
The 8-day movement’s cover is signed for Établissements Worms (ETS Worms). Maurice Worms was a watchmaker and jeweller working in Paris who supplied Cartier and other promin🎐ent houses, often using movements by Universal Genève.