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Sotheby’s Diamonds’ House Signatures: Steel

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Steel – it’s not the first metal that springs to minꦦd when thinking of jewellery. An alloy of iron and carbon, its use is primarily industrial, relied upon for its tough yet malleable strength. But mixed with the finest quality diamonds? While steel is non-precious, its use in setting🦩s that contrast dramatically with the whitest diamonds prove that it’s the treatment of a material that creates a preciousness; if handled with the same level of craftsmanship as gold or platinum, steel is more than a worthy match to the stones it holds. Jewellery writer Jessica Diamond looks at seven highlights from the .

Sotheby’s Diamonds’ House Signatures: Steel

  • Blade Earrings.
    It could be said that the Sotheby’s Diamonds Steel story began 100 years ago since the metal was sourced from early 20th century guns. Heating in the NY workshops produces a change in colour, or anodization – with different temperatures creating a range of blues, greens, violets and purple. These sleek shield-shaped earrings are crisp mono-chrome perfection, with white diamonds popping against the blackened metal.



     



    Price on request.





  • Emerald-Cut Steel Ring.
    Classically cut diamond rings tread a fine line - the art deco clean profile of this 5.18 carat emerald-cut is timeless, and a proven iconic style. But emerald-cut diamond rings are hardly rare; set on a band of dark inky steel and is instantly lifted to a new aesthetic. This is cool and edgy and deliciously contemporary.



     



    Price on request.





  • Round Brilliant Steel Earrings.
    Combining three Sotheby’s Diamonds signatures – important diamonds, the use of steel and a fine edging of pave diamonds - are at first glance a classic, and second a highly conceived contemporary riff. The culet (or base of the diamond) is fully exposed at the back, adding a graphic twist.



     



    Price on request.





  • Marquise-Cut Steel Ring.
    is having a bit of a moment, having fallen from favour for a while. The perfect rock and roll shape, it’s given an added gothic edge with a blackened steel band. An added design touch of a pavéd edge to the shank gives an extra sprinkling of sparkle, not that the 5.16 carat D Colour Internally Flawless central stone won’t produce its own light show.



     



    Price on request.





  • Margurite Earrings.
    What better way to soften a than by adding the tough masculinity of steel. Suddenly flowers are given a tough industrial edge, while the bluish tones of the petal-shaped frame of metal complements the gentle lustre of the freshwater natural pearls. As with all pieces from the Steel Collection, any metal that touches skin is rendered in gold.



     



    Price on request.





  • Lunar Ring.
    What better way to represent the night sky in all its velvety tones than blackened iridescent steel pin pricked with tiny diamonds. Setting diamonds directly into the steel ‘cup’ took the New York workshops weeks to perfect – any slip from the craftsman’s tools requires a total re-start as, unlike gold, steel imperfections cannot be filled.



     



    Price on request.





  • Steel Pendant Earrings.
    Set from underneath, are an unusual take on the classic drop earring. A line of blackened steel drops from the ear lobe like an inky pen line before finishing in a cleverly contoured scoop that embrace the diamonds of over 6 carats.



     



    Price on request.





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