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拍品 1765
  • 1765

彩色寶石配鑽石耳環一對, 寶格麗(Bulgari)

估價
240,000 - 280,000 HKD
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描述

  • Bulgari
  • sapphire, ruby, diamond, gold
• 鑽石共重約2.00卡拉
• 蛋面紅寶石共重約5.20卡拉
• 蛋面藍寶石共重約13.00卡拉
• 18K黃金鑲嵌
• 附品牌刻名

Condition

Colour and Clarity: In our opinion, the cabochon rubies and sapphires are of intense red and blue colours, clean to naked eyes. Upon 10x loupe, there are natural fingerprint and crystal inclusions, and a few stones may have surface reaching fissures, but not seen to naked eyes. Diamonds are about H to J colours, VS clarity. Signed to the earclips. Condition: Karat yellow gold mounts, with signs of wear to the metal, overall in good condition. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

拍品資料及來源

附品牌盒子乙個



意大利工煌世

1905年Sortirio Bulgari在意大利羅馬Via Condotti開設了第一家店,當時他還是一個研究珍貴銀器的專家,剛剛才開始涉足到寶石和珠寶的生意。在往後的幾十年間,S. Bulgari成功將重心從銀器轉移到高級珠寶這一方面,客人中不乏名流人仕,令寶格麗開始登上珠寶的世界舞台。可是沒有人能否認五十到六十年這時期對寶格麗的重要性,當時寶格麗的風格尤見突出、獨特的美學觀點,以致一絲不苟的造工都是令它擠身世界頂級珠寶商的原因。這一系列在戰後時代的創作,不但見證了寶格麗設計的永恆魅力,亦表現出品牌的創新精神,時至今日,寶格麗的珠寶依然秉承了上述的重要價值。

二戰結束亦代表了珠寶這類型奢侈品的重生;珠寶商對珍貴寶石的運用可謂豪不吝嗇,特別是鑽石。那時候有許多設計都以鑽石為單一素材,沒有多餘的顏色。這種風格到了五十代還是非常流行,但相比起戰前的設計,造型和線條變得更蜿蜒柔軟,像絲帶般的立體捲曲線條亦十分常見。 寶格麗在這個時期所打造的瑰麗項鏈也反映了此風尚,而且設計會加入碩大的鑽石點綴,表現出純淨不花巧、利落簡潔的時代美感,以當時來說稱得上是先鋒設計(拍品1768)。

寶格麗現今眾所周知的獨特風格亦在五六十年代可見雛型,特別是對顏色的大膽運用,以及廣泛使用蛋面而非有切面的寶石。這個時期的寶格麗偏愛圓形,令作品形態上更立體、更雄偉;他們還善於將鮮豔的顏色拼湊在一起,配搭成萬紫千紅的組合。這些都是帶有強烈寶格麗風格的經典款色,令人立刻就能認得出是品牌的創作(拍品1765)。

六七十年代的寶格麗更是蜚聲國際,影響力不可同日而諭。當時有不少國際影星、名媛政客都是寶格麗的支持者,伊麗莎白·泰勒、吉娜·洛羅布里吉達和英格麗·褒曼等女星更會戴著自己的寶格麗珠寶拍攝電影,何等華麗!色彩斑斕的彩色寶石在寶格麗的設計裡總是那麼惹人注目,而他們挑選材質時所注重的除了是寶石本身的顏色,也會著眼寶石各方面的品質、產地和稀珍程度。

寶格麗是運用顏色的珠寶大師,這一點沒有人會反對。無數的色調經過他們多番的試驗、在設計中變得更突出、配搭的時候找到自己的特點,加上簡潔的線條、平滑的輪廓、以及對歷史美學的理解,所有都昇華為此意大利珠寶商不曾妥協的設計精神。這次拍賣呈獻的一對寶格麗紅寶石耳環(拍品1767),鑲有兩顆重逾七卡拉的天然緬甸抺谷紅寶石,顏色如火焰般濃烈,充分反映了此大師超過一個世紀的精煉美學。這對世上罕有的耳環見證了寶格麗的頂級工藝,也是品牌所代表的風格中最華麗、最傑出的作品之一。