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拍品 471
  • 471

黃金及鉑金鑲鑽石配紅寶石及琺瑯彩「Swallow」別針

估價
60,000 - 80,000 USD
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描述

  • Gold, Platinum, Enamel, Diamond and Ruby
· 展翅飛翔燕子造型,飾淺灰色至藍灰色及黃灰色琺瑯
· 配圓形鑽石
· 眼睛鑲兩顆蛋面紅寶石
· 附模糊工匠標章戳記
· 別針可除下
· 約1887年

*拍品資料以英文為主,中文翻譯僅供參考

出版

Lalique, Eric Knowles, Shire Publications, pp.20-21

For related information please see:

René Lalique, Schmuck und Objets d’Art, 1890-1910, Prestel Verlag, Munchen, pp. 372-373, no. 864

French Jewelry of the 19th Century, Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, Thames & Hudson, pp. 1218-1219

Rene Lalique, Exceptional Jewellery 1890-1912. Musee de Luxembourg, edited by Yvonne Brunhammer, Skira pp. 18, 26, cat. 5, and 6.

Condition

In good condition. Slight loss to enamel towards the tip of one wing, and a small a spot at the shoulders between the wings, not readily eye visible. Retains a patina of slight tarnish overall due to age. Obscured mark underside of wing and body junction. Width: approximately 5 cm Depth: approximately 1.9 cm Height: approximately 10.6 cms.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

拍品資料及來源

This exquisite brooch in the form of a swallow represents the technical skill and artistic vision readily associated with the work of René Lalique. Born in 1860, the son of a Parisian merchant, René Lalique studied design in school and at the age of sixteen apprenticed to the jeweler Louis Aucoc. He then spent two years studying at Sydenham College and once back in Paris worked as a freelance designer for various jewelry firms such as Vever and Boucheron, Aucoc, Destape, Cartier and others. In 1885 Lalique assumed the workshop of Jules Destape and together with his talented collaborator Paul Briançon, Lalique continued his experiments with techniques and various materials to produce fresh designs inspired by his intimate relationship with nature.  In French Jewelry of the 19th Century, Vever records the following: “In 1887, he (Lalique) conceived a large gem-set parure depicting the flight of swallows, conveying perspective by the diminishing size of the birds. He was sufficiently satisfied by the model he made from the design to show it to Boucheron.” Although initially Boucheron rejected it, upon seeing the finished version he purchased it, “…complimenting him for his imagination and taste.”

The swallow brooch offered here bears an obscured mark which is likely that of Boucheron.  However the most persuasive evidence for the authorship of this brooch is not only a comparison with the drawing from the Société Lalique illustrated here. Moreover, a close examination of the subtle color gradations in the champlevé enamel decoration on the wings of the swallow demonstrate an attention to detail and mastery of technique expected in a work by Lalique. The diagonal composition reflecting the movement of a bird in flight can be observed in other examples by Lalique; a perspective derived from his earliest visual observations of nature. The absence of Lalique’s maker’s mark is not unusual, considering that Lalique worked as an anonymous colleague and supplied the major jewelers who participated in the Paris 1889 exposition.