Supporting a pendant centering a pear-shaped turquoise bead bordered by two winged uraei, topped by the head of a pharaoh, the necklace composed of winged motifs suspending turquoise beads, applied with polychrome enamel and accented by old European-cut diamonds, length 15½ inches; circa 1900.

In good condition, especially given the age of the piece, with light surface scratches to the metal not noticeable when worn, with warm patina and some areas of discoloration, mainly to the reverse of the pendant and not noticeable when worn. Metal tests as karat gold. The diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 1.30 carats, are approximately H-I color, VS-SI clarity. The turquoise are light to medium light slightly bluish green to greenish blue, mottled color with brown and whitish matrix. The green, white, blue and red enamel in good condition, with only very minor areas of loss not noticeable when worn. Clasp closes securely. Gross weight approximately 34 dwts. The fascination of Western society with ancient Egyptian culture can be traced back to ancient Roman times and has flourished to greater or lesser degrees since then. Napoleon's campaign in Egypt (1798-1801), the preliminary study of the Rosetta Stone by Thomas Young (1815), followed by Champollion's decipherment of hieroglyphics in (1824), represent the beginnings of modern Egyptology. The impact is visible everywhere, particularly in areas of artistic endeavor. In 1867, at the Paris Universal Exhibition, jewels appeared in the form of sphinxes, winged scarabs, lotus blossoms, and personifications of various deities from the Egyptian pantheon. For the remainder of the 19th century Egyptomania fever runs high. Yet in the first two decades of the 20th century, various jewelry firms are still meeting with success in creating jewels of Egyptian inspiration. Then in 1922 with the discovery of King Tutankhamen's tomb, a new wave of Egyptomania sweeps throughout the Western world. The necklace offered here dates to the turn of the 20th century and exhibits a combination of those familiar symbols from ancient Egypt; centering the head of a Pharaoh, flanked by winged uraei (symbols of royalty and divine authority), further enhanced by multi-colored enameled lotus blossoms (associated with re-birth), accented by pendant turquoise (symbolizing powerful protection on the journey into afterlife). However added to this pastiche of ancient symbols is the successful addition of numerous brilliant diamonds which gracefully enhance the overall effectiveness of the design. When thinking of other examples in the Egyptian revival style, jewels by makers such as Marcus & Co. and Josef & Carl Bacher come to mind.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.