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View full screen - View 1 of Lot 28. Reference 3969 | A limited edition platinum jump hour wristwatch | Made in 1989.

Patek Philippe

Reference 3969 | A limited edit🐟ion platinum jump hour wristwatch |ไ Made in 1989

Auction Closed

November 10, 10:19 AM GMT

Estimate

15,000 - 30,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Dial: silvered

Calibre: cal. 215 manual winding, 18 jewels

Movement number: 752'957

Case: platinum, snap-on case back

Case number: 2'864'870

Closure: platinum Patek Philippe buckle

Size: 28 x 38 mm (width x length)

Signed: case, dial and movement

Box: yes

Papers: yes

Accessories: Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, Extract from the Archives confirming date of sale on January 11, 1990, limited editionဣ Certificate and presentatio💮n case

Created during the economic and social boom of the "Roaring Twenties," Robert Cart’s jump hour complication was a strikingly unconventional design, infused with the geometric elegance of Art Deco. Several prestigious Swiss maisons adopted this novel design, with Patek Philippe being one of the earliest to do so. The brand produced only a small handful of such watches, with jus𓆏t seven wristwatches currently identified. Patek Philippe would not revisit the jump hour complication for wristwatches until 1989, the year of its 150th anniversary, when it released several limited-edition models, including the present reference 3969.


The reference 3969, made in a total of 500 examples—450 in 18k pink gold and 50 in platinum—draws direct inspiration from an 18k yellow gold jump hour wristwatch from 1927, now housed in the Patek Philippe museum. The tonneau-shaped case and distinctive dial layout, 𝓡complete with an outer railroad track minute scale, pay homage to its historic predecessor. Though initially met with hesitation by collectors, the current rena🌼issance of unusually shaped watches with whimsical complications has brought the reference 3969 back into the limelight. Collectors today prize its elegant tortue case, here preserved in excellent overall condition, paired with its rare and historically significant jump hour complication.


Among the eight commemorative pieces introduced in 1989 to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary, reference 3969 stands out for its sophisticated b🅺lend of a digital hour display and traditional minute hand, powered by the caliber 215 HG (also known as the 215 HS, for Heures Sautantes). This mechanism replaces the conventional hour hand with a rotating disc that reveals the hours through a window at 12 o'clock. The movement is encased in a tonneau case crafted by the famed Favre & Perret of La Chaux-de-Fonds, featuring a polished bezel and engraved case back marking the anniversary.


The dial, rendered in opaline silver with Breguet numerals, underscore👍s the vintage aesthetic with a railway minute track, echoing the timeless design codes of Patek Philippe. While it took time for the reference 3969 to be fully embraced by the collector community, its rarity, coupled with its refined execution of a historic complication, has made it a sought-after piece in today’s market.